Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Cloth

Mohair

Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The name ‘Angora’ originates from the province of Angora in Turkey where these goats have been farmed for centuries and are said to have descended from the Cashmere goat. To achieve the best quality of Mohair fibre, the fleece should be shorn from goats under eight years old, after which time the hair becomes too coarse. The first clipping from the Angora goat is called ‘Kid Mohair’ and because it is the first ever clip, the fibre tends to be the softest.

Mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres, with natural lustre and resistance to dirt and creasing. Angora goats thrive in habitats of high altitude, warm climate, abundant grazing pastures and fresh water.

As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.

Vicuna

Inca legend tells of the vicuna as the reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who was wooed by an old, ugly king. She would only consent to his advances if he promised her a coat of pure gold. This is how the vicuna came to have its golden fleece. Considered sacred by the Incas, only royalty were allowed to wear the vicunas precious fleece, also known as the fibre of the gods. The attraction of vicuna fleece has not diminished with time; today, vicunas continue to be worshipped as sacred animals by the indigenous Aymara Indians of Peru and Bolivia. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuna fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuna’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. However, the fibre that has been used to produce this range of fabrics has a staple length greater than 30mm; making it the first vicuna fibre to be spun into yarn using the worsted spinning system

Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres. Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road.




The Silk Road refers to the extensive trade routes across Asia, connecting North Africa and Europe. This network extended over 8,000km and enabled traders and merchants to transport luxury goods including silk, rubies, diamonds and pearls across the continents.

Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long frost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and a moderate rainfall.

The fibre can be spun into yarn or thread producing a soft, breathable textile. Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times, clothing the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China.

Europeans knew little about the origins of cotton prior to the 15th Century. Up until this time they believed cotton to be derived from a sheep-bearing plant, noting its similarities to wool.

Legend told of a wonderful tree which grew in India and bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they were hungry. The advent of the Industrial Revolution in Britain provided a great boost to cotton manufacture, as textiles emerged as Britain's leading export.

Linen

The manufacture of linen yarn and fabric is a complicated process, one that requires skill and expertise from the cultivation of the raw flax plant, to the combing and processing of the fibres in preparation for spinning and weaving. The use of linen dates back to ancient times; it was the first known textile fibre in the world, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8000 BC. Linen has also been discovered in Egyptian tombs wrapped around the mummified bodies of pharaohs, it was seen as a symbol of light and purity, and a display of wealth.

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, keeping the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining and is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Color Coordination

COLOR ME KNOWLEDGEABLE

“Honey, does this red shirt and orange tie look OK together?”

We don’t need a degree in color engineering, but a lot hinges on this! Everyday you put together many elements of your attire. Your choice of the colors you mix and match can make a significant impression on how you look to others.

Colors are like kids and employees. Some work together, and get along just fine; others always fight.

Color is energy, if you’re wearing the colors that are right for you, you’ll look dynamic. Color coordination not only makes you look good, but also gives you an organized and professional image.

We’ll try to put an end to those mornings that find you late for work, standing in front of the mirror, holding up six ties, and two shirts against your new suit! Some basic color knowledge, and a lot of experience will help you coordinate those dazzling ensembles with confidence and ease, and maybe even have time for a second cup of coffee.

Men have it easier than women in the color world since most business is conducted in navy, or gray suits, white or blue shirts, and only in our ties and pocket squares are we “allowed” the freedom to get colorful (but even there one rarely sees fuchsia!). Well maybe on the golf course, but even there we look better if the colors match!

The word match comes from an Old English word "gemaecca" which was shortened to "macche" meaning mate or companion!




Why pink for little girls and blue for little boys? An old European fairly tale had baby girls springing forth from pink roses! Blue is the color of the heavens and parents thought it would protect infant sons from the Devil!

We’re not even going to discuss here coordinating the other factors like patterns or fabric weight, and texture. However when all the colors mesh and the patterns are not all the same design or size, you could pull off wearing all patterns!!

Note this News :

Perception of your IQ may be reflected in your shirt color!

When others are repulsed by “loud”, do they mean the volume of your voice or the colors of your clothes?

Both!

According to Clare Spiegel, president of Your New Image, a career consulting company, bright colors and loud talk give an impression of low intelligence!

As reported in Men’s Health Magazine, speaking in a mid volume during a speech or presentation projects more intelligence than speaking too loudly. Speaking in moderate tones presents a calm and authoritative image rather than an appearance that you are desperate to convince everyone of your point. Too loud also can be perceived as boisterous and obnoxious.

The same goes for loud clothing colors, Spiegel says! For example, if you’re going to don a Hawaiian shirt for an event where you need some semblance of astuteness, make sure the shade is dusty or muted, not bright.

Maybe that’s why serious business attire has always been navy or gray set off by a white shirt, and some necktie color to draw attention to your face. And now we know it’s a consideration for casual clothes!


E-Tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fashion Mistakes

Why be concerned with your appearance?

Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?
Absolutely!!!
It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.
Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.

The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.
Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:

1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.
And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That's because even though it's now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.
2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men's wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.

Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.
3. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.

Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4. Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You'll appear insecure.
5. Socks should match your trousers.
6. Belts should match your shoes.
7. Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.
8. Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.
How to get a dimple under your knot?
Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.



The necktie knot should hide the collar button.
9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men's jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend.
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.
With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.
Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.
Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.
Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?
King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 - 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.
10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4" to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.


Source : AskAndyaboutclothes.com


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fabric Manufacturing Techniques

Fabrics

Fabric refers to any textile material made through weaving, knitting, braiding or plaiting and bonding of fibers. The term fabric has its origin in the Latin term fabrica meaning a workshop.Fabric can be classified based on various criteria. On the basis of fiber used for manufacturing, it can be classified as natural fabrics such as Cashmere, Cotton, Hemp, Jute, Linen, Ramie, Silk, Wool and synthetic or man-made fabrics like Acetate, Acrylic, Chiffon, Denim, Georgette, Lastex, Nylon, Organza, Polyester Fabrics, Rayon, Satin, Velvet etc. It can also be categorized on the basis of its usage for making Apparel, Curtains, Drapery, Home Furnishing, Quilting, Upholstery among others.

Other than the traditional fabrics, in view of the increased demand of textile for technical and industrial use, many speciality fabrics have also gained importance. Among these are included Abrasive, Aluminized, Awning, Blended, Carbon, Fiberglass, Flame Resistant, Narrow, Tarpaulin, Vinyl Fabric to name a few.

Fabric Manufacturing Techniques

The traditional methods of manufacturing fabrics are weaving, knitting and braiding. The more unconventional method include bonding fibers by mechanical, thermal, chemical or solvent means.

Weaving

Weaving is described as inter-lacing, usually at right angles, of two sets of threads to form cloth, rug or other types of woven textiles. Today this process is mostly automated for mass production. In it, two distinct sets of yarns called the warp and the filling or weft are interlaced with each other to form a fabric. The lengthwise yarns which run from the back to the front of the loom are called the warp. The crosswise yarns are the filling or weft. A loom is a device for holding the warp threads in place while the filling threads are woven through them.

Knitting

After weaving, the most prevalent method of fabric construction is knitting. The yarn in knitted fabrics follows a meandering path ,forming symmetric loops or stitches. When the interlocking loops run lengthwise, each row is called a wale. A wale can be compared with the warp in weaving. When the loops run across the fabric, each row is called a course. A course corresponds to the filling, or weft. There are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. In weft knitting, one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric. In warp knitting, a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.




Braiding

A braid is a rope like thing, which is made by interweaving three or more strands, strips, or lengths, in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Braiding is one of the major fabrication methods for composite reinforcement structures. It is done by intertwining of yarns in whatever direction suited to the manufacturer's purpose. From a domestic art of making laces, it evolved as a fabric made by narrow width looms. Of late, Crochet knitting machines have replaced large numbers of traditional braiding machines.

Braiding can be classified as two and three-dimensional braiding. Two-dimensional braid structure can be circular or flat braid. They are formed by crossing a number of yarns diagonally so that each yarn passes alternately over and under one or more of the others. Two dimensional braids are produced through circular braiding machine and rotary machine. Three-dimensional braiding is relatively new and was developed mainly for composite structures. In it, a two dimensional array of interconnected 2-D circular braids is created on two basic types of machines- the horn gear and cartesian machines.

Non-woven Fabrics

Nonwoven fabrics are made by bonding or interlocking fibers or filaments by Mechanical, Thermal, Chemical or Solvent means. For making Staple non-wovens, fibers are first spun, cut to a few centimeters length, and put into bales. These bales are then scattered on a conveyor belt, and the fibers are spread in a uniform web by a wetlaid process or by carding. These nonwovens are either bonded thermally or by using resin. The Spunlaid non-wovens are made in one continuous process. Fibers are spun and then directly dispersed into a web by deflectors or with air streams. Meltblown nonwovens have extremely fine fiber diameters but are not strong fabrics. Spunlaid is also bonded either thermally or by using resin. Both staple and spunbonded non-wovens would have no mechanical resistance without the bonding step.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types of Skirt

Skirts have been in fashion singe centuries, though their styles and patterns have got evolved with the time. And the best part about skirts is you can wear them at any occasion, whether you have to dress formally or simply chill out in casuals. While straight and pleated skirts impart a sophisticated look to the women, you can give the impression of being the replica of 1950’s actress by wearing full or ballerina skirts. Floral designs in skirts are liked by most of the girls in casual wear which also provides them a delicate look. In India, skirts have been in trend since times immemorial, and the cotton handloom skirts manufactured here, are loved by every Indian woman. Besides these cotton handloom skirts, there are many other types of skirts available across the world.

A-line skirts
A-line skirts, also called princess skirts, can be especially flattering to plus-size figures, but can be worn well by all figure shapes. An A-line skirt is shaped like a capital letter "A", with a snug waist spreading out into a triangular shape. A-line/princess skirts are considered a wardrobe staple, especially in a neutral color and a season-spanning fabric such as lightweight wool.
This is the basic skirt that has been customized to a great extent. With slight flare having rough shape of capital letter ‘A’, it fits at the waist while slightly touching hips and thighs; it is broader at the hem.

Flared Skirts
Actually Flared skirts are A-line skirts, but they have extra flare which beautifully covers the fat over hips and thighs. Women who are thin can also try this out in large prints as it will give a voluptuous appearance.

Fit and Flare Skirts
It is just about a variation in flared skirt and in this, flare starts from the hip, not from the waist. Girls having smaller derriere would love such skirts as it will accentuate the hip curve and cover up the lack of thigh curve.


Straight Skirts
Just true to its name, straight skirt falls rightly from the hip. These skirts suit almost everyone, though depending upon the body shape, length and waistline, results may vary.

Pencil Skirts
Hugged to the body from the waist to just above the knee, these skirts come in stretch material and with a back slit at times. Such skirts go only with slim and skinny figures as they emphasize the hips and the derriere.

Tube Skirts
Simply the longer versions of the pencil skirts, Tube skirts fit at the hip and taper at the hem. The visible difference is that they go down below the knee. It suits slim figures.

Mini Skirts
These casual and sexy skirts are loved more by men than women. Mini skirts can be very short and just right to reveal a beautiful pair of legs. Short women can always rely on this because mini skirts elongate the legs.

Pleated Skirts
Plated skirts appear best in short length, just above the knees. The flare of this skirt is reduced by plates and it fits the waist. It looks nice on both, slim and a little plump figures.

Asymmetric Hem Skirts
Asymmetric Hem Skirts come in a variety of shapes and suit a variety of figures. In this, the hem moves and curls in a pattern at different levels. It usually conceals various flaws at the hip, thigh or leg.

Bias Cut Skirts
Bias cut skirts are cut across the fabric's grain on the diagonal. Cutting on the bias creates a flowing hemline that can seem ultra-feminine and romantic. Bias cut skirts can be long or short and have panels or multi-layers.

Tulip Skirts
Tulip skirts have more fabric around the hips than pencil skirts, giving them the shape of an inverted tulip. Tulip skirts look good on most figure types, especially slender figures as tulip skirt fabric tends to add a little extra bulk around the hips.

Fishtail Skirts
A traditional fishtail skirt is a long, ankle-length skirt that is tightly fitted from the waist to the knee and then flares out to create a fishtail look. Some new designs of the fishtail skirt have a pleated area between the legs and crotch that allows the wearer more leg room to walk. Fishtail skirts are often worn for nicer occasions like weddings or proms.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Linen Clothing

If you are a man who is in the market for a new look, the most comfortable look to come in for a while involves the classic and deliciously relaxed linen pants! Linen pants are a great way to exactly as sharp or as laid back as you like, and though they first got their recent notice as proper attire for beach weddings, they are making a real splash in environments as various as the boardroom to the gym. Whether you are looking to make a statement or you are simply tired of stodgy cotton, take a look at what these comfortable garments have to offer.

Linen is a material that people have been wearing for thousands of years, and it is no wonder! It's natural, feels wonderful against the skin and depending on the weave can keep you warm or cool. The well-dressed ancient Egyptian man would never consider going out without a properly folded and immaculately white linen kilt, and you shouldn't call your wardrobe complete without a few pairs of linen pants, either!

Linen dress pants can be pressed to a razor sharp crease while never loosing their extremely comfortable quality and they are formal enough for the most conservative office. Look for a classic fit pair of linen pants for a more casual style, with a straight leg, and you'll be ready for anything.


This still doesn't mean that your linen pants can't be casual, slouch-around-the-house wear, either. Look for loose fit, drawstring linen pants when you just want to spend a Saturday sitting around the house, ordering pizza and watching movies. You'll find that these wide cut pants are ideal for movement and if you can find a pair that is pure linen, you'll be able to work out hard and feel the sweat just wicked away from your body. These pants are great for a light workout or a heavier one, depending on what you are doing.

When thinking about how to take care of your linen pants (you've probably heard horror stories about wrinkles that never go away) just follow the instructions on the label.
If they don't forbid it, you can even hand wash them in a pinch, which is safer than machine wash.
Use a detergent for delicate clothes and spot test to make sure that the color won't run, and avoid bleach entirely unless the pants are white to start with. Wash gently and iron will still a little damp to get the best results. Remember, the more you wash them, the softer they'll get and the less prone to wrinkles they will be.

Take some time to think about this important addition to your wardrobe and make sure that add a few pairs to your general rotation before too much longer.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

A versatile Fabric For Fine Custom Garments

WOOL fabric brings to mind cozy warmth. Some wools are scratchy giving some people the idea that they are "allergic" to wool. Although wool fiber comes from a variety of animal coats, not all wool’s are scratchy but rather extremely soft. The wool fibers have crimps or curls which create pockets and gives the wool a spongy feel and creates insulation for the wearer. The outside surface of the fiber consists of a series of serrated scales which overlap each other much like the scales of a fish. Wool is the only fiber with such serration’s which make it possible for the fibers to cling together and produce felt. The same serration’s will also cling together tightly when wool is improperly washed and shrinks! Wool will not only return to its original position after being stretched or creased, it will absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling damp. Its unique properties allow shaping and tailoring, making the wool the most popular fabric for tailoring fine custom garments. Wool is also dirt resistant, flame resistant, and, in many weaves, resists wear and tearing.

Basically, there are two different processes used in wool production. Woolen fabrics have a soft feel and fuzzy surface, very little shine or sheen, will not hold a crease, and are heavier and bulkier than worsteds. Blankets, scarves, coating, and some fabrics are considered woolens. Worsted wool is smoother than woolen, takes shine more easily, does not sag, holds a crease well, is lighter and less bulky, and wears longer than woolen. Worsted wool’s require a greater number of processes, during which fibers are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother, harder-surface worsted yarns produce smoother fabrics with a minimum of fuzziness and nap. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics such as tennis. No, they are not hotter than polyester but actually cooler, as the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration and the fabric "breathes," unlike polyester.


WOOL SPECIALTY FIBERS, although still classified as wool, are further classified by the animal the fiber comes from.

Alpaca fleece is very rich and silky with considerable luster. It comes from the Alpaca.

Mohair is from the angora goat and is highly resilient and strong. Mohair’s luster, not softness, determines its value. Mohair is used in home decorating fabrics as well as garment fabrics including tropical worsteds.

Angora wool is from the angora rabbit. This soft fiber is used in sweaters, mittens and baby clothes.

Camel hair is from the extremely soft and fine fur from the undercoat of the camel. Camel’s hair can be used alone but is most often combined with fine wool for overcoating, topcoating, sportswear and sports hosiery. Because of the beauty of the color, fabrics containing camel’s hair are usually left in the natural camel color or dyed a darker brown. Light weight and soft, it is said that a 22 oz. camel fabric is as warm as a 32 oz. woolen fabric.

Cashmere is from the Kasmir goat down. Separation of the soft fibers from the long, coarse hair is tedious and difficult, contributing to the expense of the fabric. The soft hair is woven or knitted into fine garments and can also be blended with silk, cotton, or wool.

Vicuna is the softest coat cloth in the world. The amount of coarse hair to be separated from the soft fibers is negligible and yields the finest animal fiber in the world. Vicuna is a member of the Llama family and is small and wild. Since it is generally killed to obtain the fleece, it is protected by rigorous conservation measures. This fiber is rare and very expensive, costing several hundred dollars per yard.


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com